The main beach at Asilah is a short walk from the town centre. It’s a large expanse of golden sand that curves northwards towards Tangier. It’s very popular with families, especially during the summer months.

A couple of miles south of Asilah is the enticingly named Paradise Beach. It’s a gorgeous spot, accessed along a dirt track so it isn’t as busy as Asilah’s main beach. The bay is sheltered from the wind, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants where you can enjoy freshly caught fish, and if you get bored of the sand and sea there are even caves to explore. This is somewhere not to be missed.

And a couple of miles to the north is Afriqua beach. Despite being easier to access than Paradise Beach, it is still a quiet and secluded location. The facilities here include toilets, a café and private sun loungers, perfect for enjoying the abundant Moroccan sunshine.

The first cultural festivals in Asilah started in the late 1970s, thanks to the efforts of two friends who wanted to bring back the glory to what was then quite a dilapidated town. Over forty years on and Asilah is now a centre for arts and culture in Morocco, with festivals happening throughout the year and arts lovers coming from around the world.

The main event is simply known as the Asilah Festival which lasts for two months of the summer. Artists, musicians and other performers, plus some 200,000 visitors, pour into the town for eight weeks of cultural workshops, demonstrations, exhibitions, concerts and even a three day horse festival. The beautiful Centre de Hasan II Rencontres Internationales, just inside the medina walls, hosts the event, with satellite performances happening around the town.

One of the most striking activities is Wall Painting. Every year the ancient walls of the medina are whitewashed to give artists a blank canvas, which they then cover with the most amazing creations. These murals are then left until the following year when the whole process starts again.

There has been a settlement at Asilah since the Phoenicians arrived in the area over 3,000 years ago and decided the curving bay and layout of the land would make a fine place to build a port. Various civilisations over the years have concurred; the Portuguese occupied the city in the 15th and 16th century and in 1692 the famous Moulay Ismail captured Asilah for the Moroccans, turning it into a base for pirates for over two centuries. It then became part of Spanish Morocco in the first half of the 20th century.

Everywhere you look in Asilah you can see the architectural evidence of the past. The Portuguese fortifications are the best preserved in the kingdom – it’s possible to circle the entire town walking along the walls – and the massive towers still stand strong. There are three gates leading to the old town, and if you look closely you can still see the faded Portuguese royal coat of arms emblazoned above the Bab Al Homor gate at the south of the medina.

Asilah still has a Catholic church – St Bartholomew’s – and it’s one of the few places in Morocco you’ll hear church bells calling people to worship every Sunday. The Grand Mosque is in the medina and is one of the few buildings that existed before the Portuguese arrived.

You’ll also find the beautifully restored Palace of Culture in the medina. Originally built in 1909 by Er-Raissouli, a local ruler, it’s a striking building that overlooks the sea and is open to explore during the Asilah Festival.